MT Supermarket brings a taste of the east to North Austin

Authentic, affordable and flavorful food is often found in the most unlikely places. The picturesque Little Italys and Chinatowns, settled by newly arriving immigrants at the turn of the 20th century, are quickly becoming overpriced museums of a bygone era. Neighborhoods that in the not-so-distant past offered refuge to lonely immigrants longing for a taste of the old country now teeter on the verge of irrelevancy.

The new face of America, for better or for worse, consists largely of dull, featureless suburbs. The new Chinatowns and Little Vietnams, at first glance, are no exception. However, beneath their lackluster facades are hidden cultural oases, no less vital than the Chinatowns of yesteryear.

On the corner of Braker Lane and North Lamar Boulevard is one such locale. Set amidst megachurches and chain stores in far North Austin is a place that virtually transports shoppers halfway around the world. MT Supermarket, which in a previous, smaller incarnation was known as My Thanh Market, boasts 55,000 square feet of Asian foods and housewares. Despite its name, the clientele is mainly Vietnamese, but Indians, West Africans and a host of other nationalities can be counted as regular shoppers.

MT Supermarket's produce section is one of the most extensive in Austin, stocked with everything from apples and pears to the dreaded durian fruit which, despite its popularity, is said to smell of rotting flesh when cut open. Chinese long beans, leeks, three types of basil, coconuts, radishes and root vegetables are among their many offerings. The lemongrass, which goes for $2.00 plus at the local "Central Mark-Up," was only 99 cents a bundle!

Perhaps most impressive is MT Supermarket's seafood section. Tanks stocked with tilapia and catfish allow customers to personally choose their fish, which can be cleaned and filleted on the spot. It just doesn't get any fresher than that! Fresh salmon, swordfish, and ruby red tuna steaks are also on display. In addition to the fish selection, live clams and mussels are also available.

The meat and poultry section offers a variety of specialty cuts not available in most chain grocery stores. Fresh pork leg, perfect for barbequing, was among their offerings. Fresh duck was also on hand, as well as speckled quail's eggs, perfect for cracking on top of uni rolls. Those after a little culture shock won't leave disappointed. Pig uteri, as well as tripe, kidneys and fresh beef hearts are also available and, from the looks of it, in high demand.

A wide selection of chili pastes, sirachi sauces, coconut milk, dried herbs and spices round out an impressive grocery section. Every imaginable type of rice and noodles can be found, as well as a wealth of teas, incense, and medicinal herbs from around the globe.

If you have ever wondered how Chinese restaurants manage to slice perfect, paper-thin slices of cucumber with robot-like precision, the answer can be found in MT Supermarket's awe-inspiring housewares department. Remarkable selections of kitchen gadgets make MT Supermarket a favorite destination of professional chefs and hobbyists alike. I bought my favorite piece of equipment, a nifty Japanese slicer/turner device called a Benriner, at MT Supermarket, and for about a third of what fancy, Arboretum kitchen stores charge. An abundance of cutlery, steamers and woks, as well as pots, pans, and tableware can also be found in the housewares section.

MT Supermarket is more than just a store- it is a cultural center of sorts for the Asian community in North Austin. Chinese New Year festivities were held at Chinatown Center, complete with dancing dragons. On any given Saturday, families and friends congregate at the 175,000 square foot complex.

Tony Trahn, who moved to the United States from Vietnam at age 2, says, "I feel fortunate to have a place like this to bring my kids … it's good to know that they will grow up with a sense of identity."

Judging from the number of cars in the parking lot, he isn't alone. Events are posted on the market's Web site, www.mtsupermarket.com. MT Supermarket is located at the corner of Braker and Lamar at 10901 N. Lamar Blvd.